Volterra in Tuscany, Italy. Thanks to the Twilight Saga by Stephenie Meyer, you may have heard about the Tuscan town of Volterra in recent years. But of course, its history and charm have roots that are 3,000 years old. In this little guide about the best things to do in Volterra in Italy, I will take you on a journey to discover one of the twelve most critical Etruscan city-states and, more recently, the city of vampires.
It is pretty obvious why Meyer, and not only she, was taken by this town. The gentle shapes of the Tuscan hills, narrow alleys, ancient buildings, and a surreal atmosphere that envelops the town, especially on winter evenings, cannot leave visitors unmoved.
Volterra offers a unique blend of history, art, and natural beauty. The city rewards the explorer by offering a fascinating glimpse into Italy’s rich past, from Etruscan times to the Middle Ages.
Where is Volterra, Tuscany, Italy?
If you open on Google or book the map of Tuscany in Italy, the town is situated at the center of the region. Administratively, it is located in the province of Pisa. The city of the Leaning Tower is only 65 km away. However, it is also easily accessible from Florence (87 km), Siena (60 km), and the coastal town of Cecina on the Etruscan Coast (50 km).
How to get to Volterra:
By Car
The best way to get there is by car. Volterra lies on a hilltop in the middle of the Tuscan countryside, with no good public transportation connections.
Visitors to Tuscany by car often visit Volterra after visiting the more famous San Gimignano, only 35 km away on a scenic road.
Where to park the car in Volterra Tuscany
Ancient walls surround the historic center. To avoid entering the restricted traffic zones (ZTL) and risk a fine, I suggest parking outside the walls in one of the parking lots. I suggest using the parking lot next to the Roman Theatre and Porta Fiorentina.
By Public Transportation
Volterra does not have a train station. The nearest one is in the valley, in Saline di Volterra. This station has only one connection to Cecina by a special electric train. You can get up to Volterra by bus from Saline di Volterra. AT bus No. 790 connects the two locations in about 20 minutes, and rides occur almost every hour.
Unfortunately, there are no direct buses to Volterra if you are based in Florence, Pisa, or Siena.
How far is Volterra from Florence?
Florence and Volterra are not that far from each other—only 87 km (54 mi). So, if you have a car, you can easily reach Volterra from Florence, and I highly recommend it as a day trip. Volterra is worth a visit, and to get there, you will drive along the Tuscan countryside, which is a fantastic experience.
The Best Things to Do in Volterra, Tuscany, Italy
Pottering around the narrow, winding streets of Volterra is like taking a journey through time, exploring three different historical periods: the Etruscan era, the Roman period, and the Middle Ages.
Volterra was an important Etruscan center, as evidenced by the well-preserved walls and the famous Porta all’Arco. The city then passed under Roman rule, from which essential ruins, such as the theater, remain. In the Middle Ages, Volterra became a free municipality and experienced a period of significant development, testified to by numerous medieval buildings, such as the Palazzo dei Priori and the Cathedral.
Porta dell’Arco, the Arch’s Gate
The impressive city walls, parts of which date back to the 4th century BC, are a testament to Etruscan engineering skills. The Porta all’Arco is the main architectonic monument of Etruscan Volterra and is another iconic landmark of the town.
The Porta all’Arco This gate, which opened on the south side of the walls, has a stone arch decorated with three heads embedded in its structure. Besides having an unusual structure, this monument’s mystery is that we do not know what these three heads represent.
The most reliable hypothesis is that these sculptures probably represent a triad of gods supposed to watch over Volterra.
The central Piazza dei Priori, the Palazzo dei Priori, and the Palazzo Pretorio
While its Etruscan heritage is prominent, Volterra also boasts a beautiful medieval character. Piazza dei Priori is the heart of the city, surrounded by elegant palaces, including the Palazzo dei Priori, the oldest public building in Tuscany, built between 1218 and 1257. The palace still retains its function as the seat of the municipality, and its appearance is very much like that of the original. The interior of the building also contains numerous works of art, including frescoes, paintings, and sculptures, which testify to the wealth of the Volterra township since the Middle Ages.
Beautiful terracottas and the coats of arms of the former commissioners who ruled the city adorn the palace’s facade. On the top of the side pilasters sit lions, the symbol of Florentine rule. Looking up beyond the windows of the upper floors, we find the marvelous clock dating from 1393.
Palazzo dei Priori is open every day from 10 am to 4.30 pm. The entrance ticket is € 10,00, including the climb to the top of the tower. Guided tours cost € 2.00.
Opposite the Palazzo dei Priori is the Palazzo Pretorio, the seat of the old Podestà. It is best known for the so-called Porcellino Tower, one of the tallest in the town. The tower owes its name to the statue of a piglet protruding out of it on a shelf.
Il Duomo and the Baptistry of Volterra in Italy
Piazza San Giovanni is the artistic and religious heart of Volterra. Here, you will find the Duomo (Cathedral) and the Baptistery of San Giovanni, which enrich Volterra with medieval charm.
The Cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, was built in the Romanesque style and still preserves essential works of art.
The interior is divided into three naves by stucco-covered columns. The grandiose coffered ceiling of carved and gilded wood is admirable, as are the 16th-century altars in the aisles that house paintings from the later 16th century.
The Baptistery, located in front of the Duomo, exemplifies Romanesque architecture. Opposite the cathedral is the Baptistery of St. John. It is a 13th-century structure and has an octagonal base. The facade is adorned with white and green marble strips in the Romanesque-Gothic style. The interior is simple and curiously holds two baptismal fonts: the ancient octagonal marble font carved by Sansovino in 1502 that is now leaning against a wall and the present monumental font in the center that is instead of 18th-century manufacture, executed in 1760 by Giovanni Vaccà
You can visit the Duomo and the Battistero with a unique ticket, including the audioguide and access to the exposition center in the nearby old hospital of Santa Maria Maddalena. The Pass costs € 8,00 and lasts two days. During 2025, the complex is open only from the 1st of April until the 31st of October.
The Guarnacci Museum in Volterra, Italy
Visit the Museo Etrusco Guarnacci to explore Etruscan culture and daily life more deeply. Founded in 1761, the museum is one of the oldest in Europe and houses a remarkable collection of Etruscan artifacts and funerary urns (more than 600 of the latter).
The two most precious jewels of the museum are the bronze statue called the Ombra della Sera (Evening shade) and the terracotta Urna degli Sposi (Urn of the bride and groom).
The Guarnacci Museum is open daily from 10 am to 4:30 pm during winter time and from 9 am to 7 pm from the middle of March until the beginning of November. Adult tickets cost € 10,00.
The Etruscan Acropolis and the Roman Cistern
The Etruscans used to read the future from signs in the sky, such as birds’ flight or lightning. Therefore, they chose areas where they could see far into the distance to build their temples. This is why Volterra’s acropolis is at the city’s highest point.
Unfortunately for us, the Etruscans built their structures on wood or clay, which did not survive the passage of time. That is why there are few remains of their rich and elegant buildings.
When the Romans took over from the Etruscans, they built a large Cistern next to the Acropolis. This “huge pool” was used as a rainwater storage facility and supplied water to the lower quarters of the city. Today, both the Acropolis and the Roman cistern can be visited. The ticket costs € 10,00.
The Medicean Fortress and the Archaeological Park Enrico Fermi
Just next to the Acropolis is the Medicean Fortress. The Florentines conquered Volterra in the 15th century, so Lorenzo il Magnifico decided to build the fortress to defend and control the city. The fortress dominates the city from its highest point and offers a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. Today, it hosts a prison and is not open to the public.
However, I suggest walking around the nearby archaeological park / public garden dedicated to Enrico Fermi. The entrance is free of charge. You can rest a little in the shade and admire the tower and the walls of the Medicean Fortress. There is also a little kinder garden for kids.
The Roman Theatre
The Roman theater of Volterra was built around the first century B.C. at the behest of the wealthy Caecina family. They estimated that it could accommodate up to 3,500 people. At the end of the third century B.C., it was abandoned and replaced by a bathhouse. During the Middle Ages, the walls partially covered it. Only in 1950 was it brought to life, and today, it is one of the most well-preserved Roman Theaters in Italy.
If you want to walk inside the archaeological area, you need a € 10,00 ticket. During winter, it is open only on weekends. However, you can also admire its ruins from above from the lookout on Via Lungo le Mura del Mandorlo.
The Pinacoteca and the Civic Museum
The rooms of Palazzo Minucci Solaini host the Pinacoteca and the Civic Museum. The building itself deserves a visit. It is probably the best-preserved Renaissance building in Volterra. In the cloister, there is a cistern fed by rainwater. Several rooms have frescoes, and wooden floors are decorated with paintings and inlays.
The origins of the Volterra Art Gallery date back to 1842, when it housed works of art from various
churches and monasteries in the city that had fallen into disuse.
The Deposition by Rosso Fiorentino is the most significant artwork in the museum. Other essential works in the collection are paintings by Taddeo di Bartolo, Alvaro Pirez, and Cenni di Francesco, the Pietà by Francesco Neri of Volterra, a predella of the story of the Virgin by Benvenuto di Giovanni, two wooden sculptures by Francesco di Valdambrino, an altarpiece of Christ in Glory by Domenico Ghirlandaio and the Holy Conversation and the Annunciation by Luca Signorelli from Cortona. There are also noteworthy collections of medieval sculpture and ceramics, medals (especially the Medici collection), and coins.
The Art Museum is open daily from 10 am to 4:30 pm, and the single entrance ticket costs € 10,00
The Ecomuseum of Alabaster
Volterra is also renowned for its alabaster, a soft and translucent mineral. Artisans have worked with alabaster for centuries, creating intricate sculptures, decorative objects, and architectural elements. You can find workshops and shops throughout the city to buy handmade artwork. The Ecomuseo dell’Alabastro provides further insight into the history of alabaster since ancient Etruscans and the techniques of alabaster working. The museum is inside Palazzo Minucci Solaini, and the entrance is included in the ticket to the Pinacoteca.
Le Balze and the Badia Camaldolese
The surrounding landscape of Volterra is equally captivating. The Balze is a rare geological phenomenon that creates a unique, almost lunar-like landscape, adding to the city’s unique atmosphere. They are huge craters in the friable soil that, over time, have distorted the land around Volterra, swallowing up walls, churches, and houses. You can admire the surrounding landscape from the top of these rocky overhangs; on clear days, you can even glimpse the sea. They are easily reached and are only a few hundred meters from the center.
On the top of one of these crags is the Camaldolese Abbey. The Abbey was founded around 1030 at the behest of the bishop of Volterra, and it was given to the care of Benedictine monks and later to the Camaldolese order. A landslide in the crags in 1600 endangered the opening of the abbey, but it was finally abandoned two centuries later, in 1800, after another landslide.
You can visit the Abbey for free but only on the summer weekends (Fri – Sun) from 1 July to 1 October (10 am—1 pm; 4 pm—7 pm; in September, only 3:30 pm—6:30 pm). You will have the opportunity to walk around the remains of the church, the cloister, and the refectory with restored frescoes.
The Iconic Rings by Mauro Staccioli
In 2009, the local artist Mauro Staccioli placed sixteen large sculptures around Volterra and its surroundings. Luoghi d’Esperienza (Places of Experience) is the name of the permanent exhibition that has been enriching Volterra’s cultural heritage since 2009. You might find his installation inside churches or along roads and crossroads. However, the most famous are two giant rings placed along the two routes that will lead you to the town: the San Martino ring in red color on the way to Siena and the white La Mestrola ring on the road to lead you to Cecina and the coast.
Sunsets in Volterra
Having time on my hands, I would not miss a sunset in Volterra when the sun’s golden light illuminates everything. I recommend one special place to watch the sunset: the belvedere from Piazza Martiri della Libertà. An incredible view of the valley with the outline of the baptistery dome to your right.
Volterra Card
If you wish to visit most of the attractions I mentioned ahead, you might consider buying the Volterra Card. A pass that costs around € 20,00 allows you to enter all places and museums, saving some euros. It is worth buying if you visit at least three places. It is valid for 72 hours. Unfortunately, you cannot buy the Volterra Card online; you can only buy it on-site at the Tourist Office.
Events in Town: Volterra A.D. 1398
Every August, for two Sundays, the historic center hosts an event highly felt by the people and appreciated by visitors. It is Volterra 1398. As you might guess from the name, it takes you back to the Middle Ages when ladies and knights, merchants and artisans, nobles, monks, and jugglers strolled the streets of the beautiful city of Volterra. To get more information, visit the event’s official website here.
Further Readings
- Eight Unusual Things to Do in San Gimignano
- The Cathedral of Siena
- Pisa beyond the Leaning Tower
- Discover Valdera
- Certaldo, the village of the poet Boccaccio
- Andrea Bocelli and The Teatro del Silenzio
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